Mortality rate on Mount Everest

A doctor warned that there were still people killed on Mount Everest, although there was a lot of technological progress and more understanding of the harsh environment in the mountains.

Dr. Andrew Sutherland, medical advisor for Mount Everest expeditions, said according to unofficial statistics, there were 15 deaths in 2006.

According to a report by the British Medical Journal, for many years, one person died every 10 conquests of Mount Everest.

Dr. Sutherland said this was due to a low understanding of the impact of sea level elevation.

Since Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay became the first to conquer Mount Everst, it is now 53 years.

Dr. Sutherland said that people now have a better understanding of the need to adapt to the climate and the need for a kind of climbing equipment to set up routes for climbers.

That means there should be fewer people who die but not really.

While most climbers die due to injuries and exhaustion, there are also a large number of climbers who die due to altitude-related diseases.

HAPE due to high difference in sea level (HACE) and pulmonary edema due to high difference in sea level (HAPE) are two forms of disease related to altitude compared to Sea surface, disease that causes the accumulation of fluid in the brain or lungs can lead to death.

"Ability to withstand altitude above sea level"

Dr. Sutherland, who climbed the mountain slope north of Mount Everest this year in an expedition called Everestmax, said he was shocked to learn the number of diseases related to altitude and sea level. ignorance of people trying to conquer Mount Everest about the danger of the disease.

"From that climb, I realized that a lot of people have a lot of climbing experience but to some extent they are quite ignorant of the high altitude they are about to face. face."

Dr. Sutherland said most people believe that most deaths happen to inexperienced climbers who use huge amounts of money to climb mountains.

But he thinks those people tend to have experienced instructors, which means they are less likely to risk risks than non-guided climbers.

However, Dr. Sutherland also added: "In my opinion, climbers are not going beyond their ability but rather their ability to withstand their altitude."

"But unfortunately, it's hard to get the experience of trying to climb higher than a third camp, Camp 3 (equivalent to 8300m) if you don't climb Mount Everest."

"And so the climbers never know what their ability to withstand altitude above 8300m."

"The longer you stay there, the more dead zone (at an altitude of more than 26,000 feet (8,000 m); this area is known as the dead zone), the higher the risk of death."

"Climbing rights"

Dr Sutherland said climbers need to check that they are not climbing too slowly - because climbing too slowly is a sign that something is wrong - and should return if necessary.

The slowest climbing speed in the safe range is about 100m in an hour to an hour and a half. If you find yourself climbing more slowly than that, the climber is better off stopping his conquest of Mount Everest.

But he said that the ego of the climbers made them often not listen to their bodies. "

"With their determination to conquer the summit, they often ignored this advice."

Dr. Charles Clarke, neuroscientist and head of the British Mountain Climbing Department (BMC) said climbing mountains has its inherent dangers that climbers need to take precautions. "

"Anyone who wants to climb Mount Everest. We respect that right of everyone."

"But no one can say that 'I have not been warned about medical dangers' whereas they need to be fully aware of that."

Everest is the highest peak on the ground up to the present time, the altitude is 8,850m above the sea level measured in 1999, but it still grows about 2.5cm annually. The road to its summit is the border of Nepan and Tibet (China).

The desire to conquer the highest mountain in the world has encouraged adventurous climbers.