What type of sunscreen should be used: Minerals or chemicals?

Each year and every season brings new trends in beauty, health care. Over the past few years, sunscreens with all-natural ingredients or mineral sunscreens have been growing in popularity, and by the time the summer comes, your Facebook page should be flooded with ads for creams. Sunscreen is said to be "healthier" than regular sunscreen.

Whether or not mineral sunscreens are safer or healthier than chemical sunscreens is unclear, but the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is controlling the sunscreen market and looking to see if Are there any ingredients in approved sunscreens that are harmful to human health?

Mineral sunscreens and regular sunscreens

Sunscreens are classified as chemical or physical, based on how they work.

Sunscreens are divided into two main categories, said Dr. Tyler Hollmig, director of dermatological surgery at the University of Medicine in Austin. The two main categories are classified as chemistry or physics, based on how they work.

Both types have been shown to reduce short and long-term damage to the skin, reducing the risk of sunburn and skin cancer. The only difference is how they work.

" Chemical sunscreens act almost like a sponge, absorbing UV rays, while physical sunscreens act like a shield, deflecting the sun's rays , " Dr. Hollmig said. prefer.

Common ingredients in chemical sunscreens - also common sunscreens - include oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate and octinoxate. Chemical sunscreens tend to "be easier to use and minimize milky residue," says Dr. Hollmig.

On the other hand, physical sunscreens (also called mineral sunscreens) contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, and users often feel sticky on their skin.

Can the human body absorb chemical sunscreens?

Part of the reason mineral sunscreens are so popular is because many people worry their bodies will absorb the ingredients in chemical sunscreens. But that can't happen based on how they work: sunscreen is applied to your skin and deflects the sun's rays, which are easily washed away with sweat or water.

However, worry is not excessive, because some ingredients in some sunscreens have absorbed and penetrated into the bloodstream, although so far there is no data to suggest that chemical sunscreens are available. FDA-approved drugs are harmful.

These two ingredients can be harmful to the user when they are absorbed through the skin (and many other ingredients listed below), but remember, chemical sunscreens are toxic or dangerous to human health. FDA approved .

The FDA is working hard to collect more safety data about the absorption of sunscreen on approved sunscreen ingredients and most importantly, how sunscreen absorption affects your skin or body. or not. In February 2019, the FDA issued a rule requiring manufacturers to provide additional data on the safety of some sunscreen ingredients used in the United States for years.

In January 2020, the FDA published a summary of a clinical trial regarding the absorption of sunscreen. The report points out that: "There is evidence that some sunscreen ingredients can be absorbed. However, the fact that an ingredient is absorbed through the skin and into the body does not mean that the ingredient is unsafe. all ".

And so, the FDA continues to recommend that people use sunscreen to protect their skin.

The FDA continues to recommend that people use sunscreen to protect their skin.

These harmful ingredients in chemical sunscreens

There are 16 active ingredients found in sunscreens, including:

• Cinoxate
• Dioxybenzone
• Ensulizole
• Homosalate
• Meradimate
• Octinoxate
• Octisalate
• Octocrylene
• Padimate O
• Sulisobenzone
• Oxybenzone
• Avobenzone
• Para-aminobenzoic acid
• Trolamine salicylate 
• Zinc oxide
• Titanium dioxide

In a rule released in February 2019, the FDA proposed that only two of these ingredients would be classified as "safe and effective" (GRASE) - zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, contained in ice cream. mineral sunscreen. FDA wants more data on the safety and efficacy of these 12 ingredients. In addition, for the last two ingredients, Para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) and trolamine salicylate, the FDA recommends unsafe and effective labeling. The FDA evaluated these ingredients and concluded that "using these active ingredients in sunscreens carries more risks than benefits".

Neither PABA nor trolamine salicylate is currently allowed to use in FDA-approved sunscreens.

"It is important to note here that the FDA requires more data does not mean the ingredients are not safe, " Dr. Hollmig said. " In fact, many dermatologists feel the FDA is too strict about sunscreen management ."

" Some of the great sunscreens used for decades in Europe have been certified for safety records, but they have never been approved in the US, " he said. Mineral sunscreens and chemical sunscreens: Which is better?

Due to the lack of scientific grounds, Dr. Hollmig does not recommend consumers to choose any sunscreen - if you want to protect your skin, either one can help you.

"I am a dermatologist," Dr. Hollmig said, "so I recommend avoiding the sun first, at least during rush hour. I would probably live in a cave if I could!"

But since all of us can't live in caves (and we need enough vitamin D anyway to be in good health), Dr. Hollmig gives some advice such as the need to wear sun protective clothing and accessories. , like a wide-brimmed hat, sunscreen, whatever kind of cream.

In other words, mineral or chemical sunscreens are also much better than using nothing to protect the skin.

"The benefits of using chemical sunscreens - reducing the risk of skin cancer, reducing sunburn, reducing skin aging - completely outweigh the theoretical risks of absorption , " Dr. Hollmig said. although he added that more scientific research is needed.

The key to staying safe in the summer is: Wearing sunscreen, using sunscreen when outdoors (but also make sure your body is balanced and getting enough vitamin D).

Sunscreens must be UVA and UVB resistant, with an SPF of 30 or higher.

Sunscreens need these characteristics, whether they are minerals or chemicals

Sunscreens must be UVA and UVB resistant, with SPF (sunscreen factor) of 30 and above, and water resistance.

" SPF refers to the ability of the product to reduce UVB penetration, causing sunburn and skin cancer," explains Dr. Hollmig. "UVA light is harder to prevent, but has been shown to contribute to skin aging and some malignancies. Therefore, sunscreen must reduce the effects of both UVA and UVB ."

As for SPF 30 specifications, Dr. Hollmig says it's the recommended level because SPF 15 blocks about 93% of UV light, while SPF 30 blocks 97%.

Sunscreens with an SPF of over 30 are actually only capable of blocking an additional 3% of ultraviolet absorption into the skin, too little for us to spend a lot of money on this high-priced product.

" You don't have to spend too much money to find a great sunscreen, " says Dr. Hollmig. " The more expensive products usually feel better when they are applied to the skin, but this does not mean they are better at blocking harmful UV rays ."

Whatever you buy, make sure you wear sunscreen throughout the day for optimal results, Dr. Hollmig advises.